Sandbank
The next leg is uncertain. I discovered that in September there is a rally to Fernando de Noronha. This would be a nice trip to do but I have to be out of Brazil in three months and it would then be a rush to Argentina.
Meantime there is plenty to do on the boat, particularly to catch up on some of the many small maintenance jobs and continue cleaning off the grime from Aratu. There are far fewer boats here now than in April. Most are at anchor so we prety much have the pontoon to ourselves.
Today, as usual, we had breakfast at nearby Paderia Sao Geronimo.
Many tempting goodies on offer, baked on the premises.
Egg sandwiches prepared by the grill chef.
A charming cashier to take our money.
A man came by selling prawns only a few hours old.
Back at the marina it was a very low tide.
The drying sandbank beyond the marina was much larger than usual.
We dinghied over.
This sandbank is covered completely at high water.
A puffer fish in the shallows.
High and dry an hour ago our dinghy about to refloat on the incoming tide.
Later, in the evening, Günther cooked the fresh prawns bought this morning. Delicious!
Meantime there is plenty to do on the boat, particularly to catch up on some of the many small maintenance jobs and continue cleaning off the grime from Aratu. There are far fewer boats here now than in April. Most are at anchor so we prety much have the pontoon to ourselves.
Today, as usual, we had breakfast at nearby Paderia Sao Geronimo.
Many tempting goodies on offer, baked on the premises.
Egg sandwiches prepared by the grill chef.
A charming cashier to take our money.
A man came by selling prawns only a few hours old.
Back at the marina it was a very low tide.
The drying sandbank beyond the marina was much larger than usual.
We dinghied over.
This sandbank is covered completely at high water.
A puffer fish in the shallows.
High and dry an hour ago our dinghy about to refloat on the incoming tide.
Later, in the evening, Günther cooked the fresh prawns bought this morning. Delicious!
Aratu to Itaparica
Kiriwina and Cora-Mae left Aratu ataround 11:15.
Apart from a short leg after the Dow refinery we were able to motor sail in SW winds F3-4. I had watched local boats take short cuts across the banks to the saouth of Ilha da Mare and we did the same.
Around 12:30 my engine suddenly raced to high revs and would not respond to the throttle. A large amount of black smoke appeared as I shut down using the engine stop thinkging the worst. However after 5 minutes I restarted and the engine ran without problems.
I anchored off Itaparica marina at 15:20. All berths were occupied by Brazilian weekenders. Later, a berth opened up and I moved in to be all fast alongside the inner pontoon at 17:40.
We ate ashore at the Turkish steakhouse.
Approaching Itaparica marina.
Apart from a short leg after the Dow refinery we were able to motor sail in SW winds F3-4. I had watched local boats take short cuts across the banks to the saouth of Ilha da Mare and we did the same.
Around 12:30 my engine suddenly raced to high revs and would not respond to the throttle. A large amount of black smoke appeared as I shut down using the engine stop thinkging the worst. However after 5 minutes I restarted and the engine ran without problems.
I anchored off Itaparica marina at 15:20. All berths were occupied by Brazilian weekenders. Later, a berth opened up and I moved in to be all fast alongside the inner pontoon at 17:40.
We ate ashore at the Turkish steakhouse.
Approaching Itaparica marina.
Aratu
At the moment daytime temperatures are around 30ºc dropping to 18º-20ºc overnight.
I spent the day doing the running rigging and preparing the sails for sea.
Günther arrived back last week and today he was guest chef at Iate Clube Aratu restaurant. Goulash and strüdel was on the menu and very nice it was too. They serve breakfast and lunch but close in the early evening. Possibly because although the Iate Clube is very secure the surrounding area is not.
Guest Chef
I spent the day doing the running rigging and preparing the sails for sea.
Günther arrived back last week and today he was guest chef at Iate Clube Aratu restaurant. Goulash and strüdel was on the menu and very nice it was too. They serve breakfast and lunch but close in the early evening. Possibly because although the Iate Clube is very secure the surrounding area is not.
Guest Chef
Salvador to Aratu
After a sumptuous breakfast at Pousada Baluarte I walked down to the Pelourinho and took the Plano Inclinado down to Ciudad Baixa to declare in at Receita General. This formality moves Kiriwina from “laid up” status to “in use”.
Plano Inclinado
Then I got a taxi back to Iate Clube Aratu. Kiriwina was dry and in very good shape apart from 3 months of accumulated dirt on the topsides.
Plano Inclinado
Then I got a taxi back to Iate Clube Aratu. Kiriwina was dry and in very good shape apart from 3 months of accumulated dirt on the topsides.
Back to Brazil
| Posada Palermo was a lovely place to stay and I spent a comfortable two days there. It rained most of the time. The Taxi called at 07:45 and got me to Ezezia airport brfore 8:30. Check-in with GOL took only a few minutes. As boarding time approached it became clear that the flight would would be late. In the event we left some 2 1/2 hours late at 13:30. At least GOL owned the problem and there were staff waiting for my flight at Sao Paolo to issue connecting passengers with new boarding passes and escort us through to the domestic terminal where we were immediately checked in for the flight to Salvador. This left at 18:30 and arrived at Salvador just after 21:00. Pousada Baluarte had arranged a taxi and I arrived there just after 10:30. My room at Pousada Baluarte. |
Posada Palermo
21/07/08 22:27 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
Checkout was at 11:00 and I got all of my deposit back. It had been raining heavily all morning but I managed to catch a break and walked around to Posada Palermo, a couple of blocks north of Avenida de Santa Fe.
It continued to rain throughout the afternoon.
It continued to rain throughout the afternoon.
Aerolinias Argentinas
20/07/08 22:52 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
| The longer I stay here the more Argentina reminds me of Britain in the seventies. This week the government nationalised Aerolíneas Argentinas, or as they called it “recuperacíon”. They have quite a job on their hands. Despite having subsidised fuel and a near monopoly on many internal routes Aerolíneas is losing US$30 million per month and around two thirds of its 65 aircraft are not certified to fly. Tonight is my last night in the apartment. For my last two days in Buenos Aires I will be staying nearby at Posada Palermo. |
Peña "El Entrevero"
18/07/08 20:58 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
| More in Clarin this morning about vice president Cobos casting his deciding vote in the senate against the government and thus causing the reversal of controversial export taxes on grain. The words Judas and Tracion were used. Last week at the Feria de Matadores I picked up a flyer for Peña El Entrevero. Not knowing exactly what this was other than that there was live music I decided to go along. Getting there involved a long Collectivo trip out to the western edge of Buenos Aires. What a surprise when I got there. It was an evening of live music dance and home made food. Che was there in the form of a big poster behind the stage. Proceedings got under way with a short folklórico dance class followed by Patricia Roldos accompanied by Osvaldo Burucua on guitar. Then two folk groups Los Provincianos and La Maula, and finally an amazing percussion band of about 15 wonderfully choreographed youngsters. The programme described them as “percusión con instrumentos no convencionales”. The instruments being drums (think oil drums) of various sizes and pipes (as in water) again of various sizes. Unfortunately there was not enough light to get some pictures. There was virtually continuous dancing (danza folklórica) which for want of a better description might be described as a fusion between flamenco and celtic. In between the featured talent there were dancing displays by students of one of the organisers, Sandra Cirilli. I have two left feet but in the early hours, after a few glasses of wine, I was persuaded to have ago. With a bit of practice I could get to like this. All the talent was of a very high standard and the cost for the evening including wine and food was A$32 (about £5). I left at just before 5 in the morning and doubled my expense by taking a A$30 taxi ride home. |
Mas Crisis Politica
17/07/08 21:30 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
| More in the papers on the “Crisis politica”. La presidenta was quoted as saying “El problemo fue que mi vicepresidente me votó en contra”. A statement of the blindingly obvious. It’s a tough job being president of Argentina. Clips of the Vice President voting no in the senate appeared very quickly online. |
Crisis política
16/07/08 22:58 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
For the last 5 months the government here led by Cristina Kirchner has been involved in a prolonged dispute with rural interests over increased export taxes on soya and wheat amongst others.
The ruralistas have blocked roads and staged frequent demonstrations. The government decided to let congress decide and won in the house of deputies. Last night the senate, after voting at around 03:30 was evenly split. Vice president Cobos, supposedly a supporter of the government, cast his deciding vote against the taxes.
I was still up when the caceroleros began. Normally these signify a protest against the government. This area Palermo/Recoleta does not appear to be supportive of the government and the caceroleros were celebrating. I turned on the tele and sure enough the government had lost.
Caceroleros register their state of dissent by taking to the streets (or hanging out of windows) and banging saucepans. They make a lot of noise. This you tube video, made earlier in the year, catches the mood.
The ruralistas have blocked roads and staged frequent demonstrations. The government decided to let congress decide and won in the house of deputies. Last night the senate, after voting at around 03:30 was evenly split. Vice president Cobos, supposedly a supporter of the government, cast his deciding vote against the taxes.
I was still up when the caceroleros began. Normally these signify a protest against the government. This area Palermo/Recoleta does not appear to be supportive of the government and the caceroleros were celebrating. I turned on the tele and sure enough the government had lost.
Caceroleros register their state of dissent by taking to the streets (or hanging out of windows) and banging saucepans. They make a lot of noise. This you tube video, made earlier in the year, catches the mood.
Palacio San Martín
14/07/08 22:24 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
Class today took the form of a field trip visiting Plaza San Martin and some of the surrounding buildings. It was a lovely sunny day with unseasonably warm temperatures around 20ºc.
Avenida Fanta Fe where it enters the plaza.
Palacio Paz was at one time the largest and most luxurious private home in Buenos Airies. It was closed today.
Another view of Palacio Paz.
Enormous tree at the centre of Plaza San Martin.
Falklands/Malvinas memorial complete with eternal flame and honour guard. After a public debate this was erected between the centre of the plaza and the Torre de Los Ingleses.
Torre de Los Ingleses which was built in the period 1910-1916 and funded by the british residents of Buenos Aires. It commemorates the centenary of the May 1810 revolution.
Self with the English Tower behind.
English Tower viewed from the plaza centre with the Argentine flag flying above above the Falklands/Malvinas memorial.
Later in the afternoon I took a guided tour of Palacio San Martin which has housed the Argentine Foreign Office since 1936.
It was built betwen 1905-1909 for the fabulously wealthy Anchorena family in French classical style. The family suffered during the depression and sold their palace cheaply to the Argentine government.
Nowadays the palace is a national monument used mainly for ceremonial occasions.
View from the ground floor entrance....
...a closer view of the slate tiling.
Interior photograpy was not allowed.
Balcony overlooking the small garden.
Upper floors at the rear of the building.
A piece of the Berlin Wall in the rear garden.
Wrought iron windows overlooking the garden from the smoking room.
West wing.
Avenida Fanta Fe where it enters the plaza.
Palacio Paz was at one time the largest and most luxurious private home in Buenos Airies. It was closed today.
Another view of Palacio Paz.
Enormous tree at the centre of Plaza San Martin.
Falklands/Malvinas memorial complete with eternal flame and honour guard. After a public debate this was erected between the centre of the plaza and the Torre de Los Ingleses.
Torre de Los Ingleses which was built in the period 1910-1916 and funded by the british residents of Buenos Aires. It commemorates the centenary of the May 1810 revolution.
Self with the English Tower behind.
English Tower viewed from the plaza centre with the Argentine flag flying above above the Falklands/Malvinas memorial.
Later in the afternoon I took a guided tour of Palacio San Martin which has housed the Argentine Foreign Office since 1936.
It was built betwen 1905-1909 for the fabulously wealthy Anchorena family in French classical style. The family suffered during the depression and sold their palace cheaply to the Argentine government.
Nowadays the palace is a national monument used mainly for ceremonial occasions.
View from the ground floor entrance....
...a closer view of the slate tiling.
Interior photograpy was not allowed.
Balcony overlooking the small garden.
Upper floors at the rear of the building.
A piece of the Berlin Wall in the rear garden.
Wrought iron windows overlooking the garden from the smoking room.
West wing.
Feria de Mataderos
13/07/08 23:38 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
Mataderos is a Barrio on the western edge of Buenos Aires. Every sunday the Feria de Mataderos offers a mixture of craft market, farmers market, gauchos on horseback, live music, dancing and lots of food.
I went with a group from school. We took about an hour to reach Mataderos by colectivo. Price one peso.
Gauchos are much in evidence. Their costumes and harnesses often include elaborate leatherwork.
Visitors are entertained by Gauchos hurtling at full tilt towards this iron bar. A ring about the size of a 50p piece is loosely attached to the bar. The obect is to spear and retain the ring with a micro-lance about the size of a biro.
Anti-slip sand is sprinkled on the road.
This Gaucho holds his micro-lance in his mouth as he accelerates towards the bar.
Setting the ring. Only about 1 in 5 manage to spear and retain the ring.
Another run about to begin.
Remedies for every ailment.
Spices in bulk.
Having arrived not intending to buy anything I ended up with three carrier bags containing wine, licor de crema al limon, olives, nuts, assorted items in leather and a wooden spoon. The wine didn’t make it back home. The bottle broke when I dropped it.
Live music by La Yunta and others.
Dancing.
There was lots of dancing from around 17:30 until 20:00 when we took a packed colectivo back to Buenos Aires. Muchas gracias Cecilia.
I went with a group from school. We took about an hour to reach Mataderos by colectivo. Price one peso.
Gauchos are much in evidence. Their costumes and harnesses often include elaborate leatherwork.
Visitors are entertained by Gauchos hurtling at full tilt towards this iron bar. A ring about the size of a 50p piece is loosely attached to the bar. The obect is to spear and retain the ring with a micro-lance about the size of a biro.
Anti-slip sand is sprinkled on the road.
This Gaucho holds his micro-lance in his mouth as he accelerates towards the bar.
Setting the ring. Only about 1 in 5 manage to spear and retain the ring.
Another run about to begin.
Remedies for every ailment.
Spices in bulk.
Having arrived not intending to buy anything I ended up with three carrier bags containing wine, licor de crema al limon, olives, nuts, assorted items in leather and a wooden spoon. The wine didn’t make it back home. The bottle broke when I dropped it.
Live music by La Yunta and others.
Dancing.
There was lots of dancing from around 17:30 until 20:00 when we took a packed colectivo back to Buenos Aires. Muchas gracias Cecilia.
GOL T-Shirt
12/07/08 21:37 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
Rather than spend lots of money on a taxi or coach I decided to take Collectivo number 86 to the airport from Avenida de Mayo.
Two and a half hours later I got to the Ezezia Airport. The fare A$1.50. We were delayed by two bad road accidents and the route wound through some of the poorer parts of Buenos Aires. very very different from Palermo/Recoleta.
The GOL office was closed. Visitors were directed to a Gol sales desk next to their checkin desks. I queued. Despite having used my card twice before in person to purchase GOL tickets their system would not accept any of my cards.
I had to pay in cash. The amount exceed what I can normally take out but by using tree separate networks, Banelco, Cirrus, and Link I got enough. Then I had to queue again to pay.
The famous tight white GOL t-shirts were on display as usual.
I got the Manuel Tienda Leon (A$35) coach back arriving at about 17:30. I like flying GOL but buying their tickets is like pulling teeth.
Two and a half hours later I got to the Ezezia Airport. The fare A$1.50. We were delayed by two bad road accidents and the route wound through some of the poorer parts of Buenos Aires. very very different from Palermo/Recoleta.
The GOL office was closed. Visitors were directed to a Gol sales desk next to their checkin desks. I queued. Despite having used my card twice before in person to purchase GOL tickets their system would not accept any of my cards.
I had to pay in cash. The amount exceed what I can normally take out but by using tree separate networks, Banelco, Cirrus, and Link I got enough. Then I had to queue again to pay.
The famous tight white GOL t-shirts were on display as usual.
I got the Manuel Tienda Leon (A$35) coach back arriving at about 17:30. I like flying GOL but buying their tickets is like pulling teeth.
Trying to Fly GOL
11/07/08 21:47 Filed in: Buenos Aires | Argentina
| This morning when I got to school I tried again to buy my ticket with GOL. I failed again. The site refuses to complete the transaction. Looks like it might be the same as in Brazil where they do not take foreign credit cards on the site. At lunchtime I tried again. This time the site confirmed a reservation but would not accept my credit card. On the phone they agreed to hold the reservation but would not take payment. I would have to go to the airport and pay in person.. |
Yacht Club Olivos
10/07/08 22:50 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
| Time to buy my ticket back to Salvador. GOL again proves to be the best bet. I reserved online and got as far as the purchase summary with a credit card receipt. However, it did not complete and no confirmation was issued. I bought some local river plate charts the other day.The store had a giveaway magazine on Argentine nautical matters. An ad mentioned a lecture on tall ships at |
Riot
08/07/08 23:55 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
Avenida de Mayo runs between the Casa Rosada and Congress. It’s a wide treelined avenue but virtually all the buildings are heavily shuttered. This does little to enhance the built enviromment.
However yesterday there was a riot for two hours which very clearly showed the need for shutters.
The mob smashed up this police car..
..and threw molotov cocktails.
However yesterday there was a riot for two hours which very clearly showed the need for shutters.
The mob smashed up this police car..
..and threw molotov cocktails.
MALBA
06/07/08 23:56 Filed in: Argentina
| The Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, or |
El Hombre de Almohada
05/07/08 22:57 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
| El Hombre de Almohada was performed in London as |
Persico Icecream
04/07/08 21:57 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
They deliver icecream here.
This is the Persico icecream emporium in Recoleta with their fleet of icecream delivery scooters.
Their icecream is very very nice.
This is the Persico icecream emporium in Recoleta with their fleet of icecream delivery scooters.
Their icecream is very very nice.
Carnivores
02/07/08 22:58 Filed in: Argentina | Buenos Aires
Walking through Recoleta on the way home I passed this restaurant. The grill was in the front window.
Running Argentina is a tough job and La Presidenta takes a lot of flak. Here, in a lighter moment, she was photographed yesterday with supporters.
Running Argentina is a tough job and La Presidenta takes a lot of flak. Here, in a lighter moment, she was photographed yesterday with supporters.